Chemical sunscreen or mineral sunscreen: which one should you choose to protect your skin from UV rays?

What is sunscreen used for?

The sun emits a range of radiation, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which is invisible to the naked eye but harmful to the skin. UV rays are divided into three types based on their wavelength (measured in nanometers, nm):

• UVC rays (100–280 nm): These are the most dangerous, but fortunately they are blocked by the ozone layer.
• UVB rays (280–320 nm): these are responsible for sunburn and skin cancer.
• UVA rays (320–400 nm): They penetrate deep into the skin, accelerate skin aging, and can increase the risk of skin cancer.

A sunscreen therefore protects against UV rays by absorbing, reflecting, or scattering them before they damage the skin.

While some filters offer broad-spectrum protection (against both UVA and UVB rays), others provide only UVB protection, and still others protect against short-wavelength UVA rays (320–350 nm) but are less effective against long-wavelength UVA rays (350–400 nm).

That's why sunscreens often combine several different filters—whether chemical and/or mineral—to ensure complete protection against all types of UV rays.

Chemical sunscreens (or organic sunscreens)

A chemical sunscreen (also known as an organic sunscreen) is made up of organic molecules selected for their ability to absorb UV rays and chemically modified in a laboratory.

Chemical sunscreens have evolved significantly in recent years. It is therefore important to distinguish between older-generation chemical sunscreens and newer-generation chemical sunscreens. While some older formulas may potentially cause allergic reactions or are suspected of being endocrine disruptors, the newer-generation formulas are among the most reliable and best tolerated by the skin.

Examples of older-generation chemical filters:

• Octinoxate (INCI name: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate).
• Oxybenzone (INCI name: Benzophenone-3).
• Octocrylene (INCI name: Octocrylene).
• Avobenzone (INCI name: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane).

Examples of next-generation chemical filters:

• Ethylhexyl Triazone.
• Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.
• Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate.
  

How They Work: Whether they are old- or new-generation products, chemical sunscreens work the same way. They absorb UV rays before they come into contact with the skin, convert them into thermal energy, and then “release” them as a small amount of heat.

Skin tolerance: Some older-generation chemical sunscreens are suspected of causing irritation or redness, especially on sensitive and reactive skin, but the risk remains minimal. In contrast, newer-generation chemical sunscreens are among the best tolerated by the skin and are considered non-toxic.

Effectiveness and photostability: While older chemical filters can degrade rapidly when exposed to the sun, this is not the case with next-generation chemical filters, which are known to provide reliable, effective, and consistent long-lasting protection.

Texture and ease of application: Chemical sunscreens are fluid, transparent, and easy to spread, offering the advantage of creating lightweight sunscreens that are invisible upon application.

Environmental impact: Studies suggest that certain older chemical filters (such as oxybenzone and octinoxate) may harm corals and marine life. The latest generation of chemical filters, however, are more ocean-friendly.

📌 At NUHANCIAM, we’ve chosen to use next-generation chemical sunscreens that block both UVA and UVB rays because, today, they’re the only ones that guarantee both optimal protection and a minimal impact on the marine environment, while remaining invisible on the skin.

Mineral sunscreens (or physical sunscreens)

As their name suggests, mineral sunscreens (also known as physical sunscreens) are made from minerals. These minerals are extracted in powder form from natural deposits. They are then purified and processed to remove impurities.

Mineral filters tend to leave a white film on the skin. In some mineral sunscreens, to minimize this unsightly white cast, the minerals are reduced to the size of nanoparticles (less than 100 nm in diameter). However, there are concerns about their potential danger and toxicity, as these nanoparticles may pose a risk of being absorbed into the body or inhaled (particularly in sprays). Their long-term impact on health and the environment is still being studied.

The two most commonly used mineral sunscreens are:

• Titanium dioxide (INCI name: Titanium Dioxide).
• Zinc oxide (INCI name: Zinc Oxide).

On the product label, the term [NANO] must appear next to the ingredient’s name when it has been reduced to the size of nanoparticles.

How it works: A mineral sunscreen acts as a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, reflecting UV rays like a mirror.

Skin tolerance: In general, they are very well tolerated, even by those with sensitive or atopic skin. However, in their nanoparticle form, mineral filters are suspected of posing a potential health risk.

Effectiveness and photostability: Mineral filters are highly heat-resistant and can therefore maintain their protective properties over a long period of time, even in direct sunlight. However, they may not be very resistant to water or rubbing, which reduces their effectiveness if the sunscreen is not reapplied regularly. Furthermore, protection may not be uniform if the sunscreen is not applied evenly.

Texture and ease of application: Unlike chemical sunscreens, mineral sunscreens tend to leave unsightly white streaks on the skin when they are not reduced to nanoparticle size.

Environmental impact: The two mineral filters most commonly used in sunscreens (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) are naturally occurring but not biodegradable. In nanoparticle form, they can accumulate in aquatic ecosystems and affect certain marine organisms.

Understanding the Differences Between Chemical Filters and Mineral Filters

Chemical sunscreen filters

✔️ Offer optimal comfort for daily use and under makeup.
✔️ Easy to apply, they provide reliable and even protection.
✔️ Light, fluid texture, ideal for combination, oily, and acne-prone skin.
✔️ Leave no white cast on any skin tone, including Black, dark-skinned, and mixed-race skin.
✔️ Safe and very well tolerated by the skin when they are part of the new generation of chemical filters.
❌ Some older-generation chemical filters may cause redness or trigger allergies in particularly sensitive or reactive skin.

Mineral sunscreens

✔️ Little to no risk of irritation or allergies; they are generally well tolerated even by sensitive or atopic skin.
✔️ Heat-resistant; they remain effective even after prolonged sun exposure.
❌ The texture can sometimes be difficult to spread, so protection may not be even.
❌ Tend to leave white streaks on the skin, especially if they are not in nanoparticle form.
❌ May quickly lose their effectiveness in water or when rubbed off.
❌ In nanoparticle form, they may pose health and environmental risks.

Chemical or mineral sunscreen… so, which one should you choose?

Whether you choose a sunscreen with chemical or mineral filters, it’s always worth remembering that broad-spectrum sun protection is essential every day to prevent your skin from being damaged by UV rays.

This is true of NUHANCIAM sunscreens, which offer broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays. They are formulated to minimize their impact on the marine environment using a combination of sun filters from the new generation of chemical filters, which are now considered the safest, most effective, most innovative, and best tolerated by the skin.

💡 The Invisible Cream : It offers very high UVA and UVB protection while being, as its name suggests, invisible on the skin. Lightweight and non-greasy, it’s perfect for daily use and as a primer under makeup.

💡 The SPF 50+ Tinted Moisturizers : Available in three shades (Light, Medium, and Dark), they provide broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays while offering light coverage with a matte finish to beautifully and subtly even out the complexion.