Skincare Brands for Black Skin: How Do They Differ from Traditional Dermocosmetics?

Skincare products sold indrugstores andpharmacies have a reputation for being effective. But if you have dark skin, you may have noticed that these dermocosmetic products don’t always work well for you… And that’s no coincidence. Here’s why many traditional skincare brands may not be suitable for dark skin.

 

The problem with dermocosmetics: skincare products formulated for “standardized” skin

Most dermocosmetic products available in pharmacies and drugstores are designed and formulated for only certain skin types. In fact, they are generally developed based on clinical data collected from Caucasian skin types (phototypes I through III: very fair to medium-fair skin).

Brands then sell these products by claiming that they are “suitable for all skin types”… Except that, in reality, they may not be effective—or may even be unsuitable for the sensitivity of darker skin (phototypes IV through VI: olive to black skin).

 

Reminder: What is a skin phototype?

A phototype is a classification of individuals based on how their skin reacts to sun exposure (tendency to burn, ability to tan, etc.).

According to the Fitzpatrick classification, developed in the 1970s and used worldwide as a standard by dermatologists, there are six distinct phototypes:

PHOTOTYPE	PIGMENTATION	REACTION TO THE SUN
I	Very fair skin	I always get sunburned; I don't tan, I just turn red
II	Light, pale skin	Frequent sunburns, and a light, slow tan
III	Slightly matte skin	Occasional sunburns, gradual tanning
IV	Dark skin	Rarely gets sunburned, tans quickly
V	Dark skin, brunette	Sunburn is very rare; tans very quickly
VI	Dark brown or black skin	Very rare sunburns, intense tan

 

The Main Characteristics of Dark Skin

In addition to their high melanin content, black skin has several biological characteristics that distinguish it from Caucasian skin:

• A denser, more compact stratum corneum.
• A slightly more acidic skin pH.
• High sensitivity and responsiveness.
• Overactive sebaceous glands.
• A tendency to develop marks easily (scars, hyperpigmented spots, etc.).
• Specific hydration needs.

All these characteristics mean that black skin is very demanding and has very specific needs. However, most dermocosmetic brands formulate their products without taking these specific characteristics into account…

 

Black skin—the great forgotten group by dermocosmetic brands

In dermocosmetics, the majority of product tests and clinical studies are conducted exclusively on phototypes I through III. Even today, few brands test their skincare products on phototypes IV, V, and VI.

This means that even if a product claims to be “clinically proven effective,” its effectiveness and tolerability on Black skin are not actually guaranteed. As a result, a significant portion of the population is given little, if any, consideration by many skincare brands.

 

What a Truly Inclusive Skincare Brand Designed for Black Skin Does

Unlike traditional dermocosmetic brands, a skincare brands for Black skin chooses to prioritize inclusivity right from the formulation stage. At NUHANCIAM, in particular, we design every product for all skin tones, without exception:

• Gentle, clean, yet targeted formulas designed to respect every skin tone.
• Clinical trials conducted on all skin types.
• Commitment to a more equitable approach to care.

This innovative approach to skincare stemmed from two observations:

• Traditional dermocosmetic products are not truly universal.
• Dark skin is the most demanding, so a skincare product that works on dark skin will necessarily work on lighter skin, whereas the reverse is not always true.
  

 

A Final Thought: Toward More Inclusive—and Therefore More Effective—Dermocosmetics

Traditional skincare products found in drugstores and pharmacies aren’t “bad” in and of themselves. But they aren’t necessarily formulated for everyone, despite what they promise. That’s why, if you have dark skin, it’s best to turn to skincare brands (like NUHANCIAM 😉) that design, formulate, and test their products specifically for dark skin tones.