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VITAMIN C

ASCORBIC ACID or MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE or TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE or 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID

Ascorbic acid, better known as vitamin C, is something of a superhero in anti-aging skincare. Renowned for its antioxidant properties, this precious vitamin offers numerous benefits for the skin. Always ready to brighten the complexion, it also helps combat the signs of aging. In cosmetics, it’s usually listed in the ingredients under its scientific name, ASCORBIC ACID. But there are other optimized forms of vitamin C for skincare, such as stabilized vitamin C (MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE and 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID) or fat-soluble vitamin C (TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE)—these are the ones we use at NUHANCIAM.

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What Is Vitamin C? — Definition

Vitamin C is a water-soluble antioxidant that is essential for the human body. Water-soluble means that it dissolves in water, making it easy for the skin andthe body to absorb. The bad news is that our bodies cannot produce it on their own, which is why it’s important to get it through our diet andby using skincare products that contain it.

On the skin, vitamin C acts as a shield against pollution, the sun, and all the daily aggressors responsible for skin aging. In addition to its antioxidant action, it’s renowned for its“radiant glow”effect, which instantly revitalizes the complexion.

Vitamin C may be super-powerful, but it is also very fragile. In other words, it does not tolerate heat, air, or light well—these factors destroy it and cause it to lose its properties. That is why, in cosmetics, different forms of vitamin C are used: some have been developed to make vitamin C more stable and thus preserve its benefits over time.

● ASCORBIC ACID (pure vitamin C): This is vitamin C in its most effective form, but also its most fragile. Since it degrades easily, it is difficult to preserve its effectiveness over time.

● MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE and 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID ( stabilized vitamin C): These are forms of vitamin C that have been stabilized—that is, optimized to retain their properties over a longer period and to penetrate the skin more effectively.

● TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE (fat-soluble vitamin C): This is a form of vitamin C that has been made fat-soluble, meaning it can dissolve in fats. This allows it to penetrate the skin even more easily, thereby maximizing its effectiveness. This form of vitamin C is also generally better tolerated by the skin.

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Vitamin C — How It Works

Vitamin C’s main function is to neutralize free radicals—aggressive molecules generated by the sun’s UV rays, pollution, and stress—which are largely responsible for skin aging.

It also promotes cell renewal and the production of collagen, a protein essential for maintaining the skin’s elasticity and firmness.

Finally, vitamin C skincare products can help reduce the production of melanin, the pigment that causeshyperpigmentation when produced in excess. They thus help fade dark spots and even out the complexion.

In short, vitamin C is an essential, multi-functional active ingredient for plump skin and a flawless complexion.

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Benefits of Vitamin C for the Skin

The many benefits of vitamin C for the skin are well established!

✔ Antioxidant: It protects the skin against external aggressors (pollution, UV rays, etc.).

✔ Anti-aging: It improves skin firmness and reduces wrinkles and fine lines.

✔ Brightening: It adds radiance and illuminates the complexion.

✔ Revitalizing: It restores vitality to the skin.

✔ Regenerating: It boosts cell renewal.

✔ Evening: It helps reduce dark spots and evens out the complexion.

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Is vitamin C suitable for all skin types?

Vitamin C is suitable for all skin types and all skin tones (from dark to light, including mixed-race skin). It can be used daily and over the long term for a cumulative effect on radiance and firmness.

That said, every skin type has its own specific needs. It’s therefore best to check the ingredients list of the vitamin C skincare product you’re considering to ensure it’s best suited to your skin.

Those with sensitive skin will generally prefer a gentle form of vitamin C, such as TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE (fat-soluble vitamin C), for better skin tolerance. This is also true for very dry skin, which will benefit from fat-soluble formulas because they contain nourishing oils and help prevent dehydration.

On the other hand, oily and acne-prone skin types are better suited to aqueous (water-based) formulas, as they are lighter and non-comedogenic.

In any case, mature skin, as well as dull and tired complexions, will benefit greatly from vitamin C skincare products.

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Vitamin C in Cosmetics

After learning about all the benefits of vitamin C, it’s easy to see why it’s so widely used in dermocosmetics. It’s found in many revitalizing, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, and anti-dark spot skincare products, ranging from cleansers to creams, toners, and serums.

Contraindications and side effects: Contrary to popular belief, vitamin C is not photosensitizing. Therefore, there are no contraindications to applying a vitamin C product before sun exposure. However, it can be irritating in high concentrations, especially for sensitive or acne-prone skin. A slight tingling sensation is normal, but if redness persists, it’s best to space out applications. Additionally, it’s not recommended to combine it with retinol or exfoliating acids (AHAs or BHAs).

Storage tips: Vitamin C should be stored away from heat and light to prevent oxidation. A little tip? Store your vitamin C skincare products in the refrigerator to ensure they remain effective for as long as possible.

Usage and Application Tips: We highly recommend applying it in the morning to maintain a radiant complexion and protect your skin from environmental stressors all day long. Additionally, some scientific studies suggest that vitamin C may maximize the effectiveness of sunscreen, so don’t forget to apply it for even better skin protection.

At NUHANCIAM, we want nothing but the best for your skin. That’s why we’ve selected the best forms of vitamin C to ensure effective yet gentle results for all skin types and tones, including darker skin tones, which are more prone to a lack of radiance and evenness. In our formulas, we combine vitamin C with other complementary active ingredients to offer you targeted, naturally effective skincare.